Srinagar, Aug. 21 -- The rain had settled over the city that morning, the kind that makes you want to stay indoors and watch the day go by. It was my friend's birthday, and she kept wavering over my invitation to lunch at her favourite new place. I thought she might not come at all.

Then, just as the clouds thickened, she arrived at my door. She borrowed one of my dresses, I called for a cab, and off we went: two friends.

This small restaurant is barely two months old, located at a stunningly beautiful place. I assume the owners must have needed a special permission from the government to get this restaurant built at that particular location. Construction at such a site where nature offers itself with grace will simply be a felony. But ...