Srinagar, April 23 -- BAISARAN,Pahalgam- Waseem Khan was on duty when he heard the noise. It was just before 3pm on April 22. At first, it sounded like crackers. Then came the screams from Kashmir'sminiSwitzerland.

"I thought maybe someone was celebrating," said the 34-year-old guard cum guide from Pahalgam. "But then I saw people running, falling. That's when I knew."

Waseem had worked in the forests above Baisaran for years. He knew the trails by heart. Tourists trusted him to guide them safely. On that day, the trust turned into something more.

He rode uphill, dodging panicked visitors. At the top, the meadow was no longer a picnic spot. It was a killing ground.

"There were bodies in the grass. A woman lying on her side. A man craw...