Srinagar, Aug. 13 -- I accompanied Om Prakash Sharma, then Additional Principal Chief Conservator of Forests, to the Basant Wodder forests near Doodh Pathri in Budgam. The morning air was sharp, scented with pine and earth, and sunlight slanted through the trees in golden streaks. We were marking World Environment Day with students and teachers, but I wasn't prepared for how profoundly the day would reshape my understanding of Kashmir.

Sharma ji moved among the plants as if each recognized him. He plucked a handful ofHan'nd, letting its leaves fall into my palm, and spoke ofKrech,Obej,Pamb Haakh,Lissa, and mushrooms likePaenz Unjgee. He described their taste, their nutritional value, the way villagers and shepherds used them.

I suggeste...