Srinagar, June 7 -- At first light, men walked toward Hazratbal in droves and dozens. White kurtas brushed past shuttered shops. Boys held balloons. Women moved along the edge of the road.

The courtyard filled fast. Rows tightened. Heads bowed. Omar Abdullah stood among the crowd, his sons beside him. Dr. Farooq Abdullah prayed nearby.

In the old city, it was different. The gates of Jamia Masjid stayed locked. Police stood outside, friendly but firm. No prayers at Eidgah, either.

Instead, small mosques filled across the Valley. In neighborhood lanes, imams led quick sermons. Children sat cross-legged on prayer mats. Girls showed off new shoes. Outside, shopkeepers handed out sweets.

Then came the sound of sacrifice. In courtyards, she...