Srinagar, July 9 -- The road to Wayil always feels like it's leading somewhere beyond maps.

A short drive from Srinagar, past the fruit orchards of Ganderbal and the bends of the highway where schoolboys wave at passing cars, lies this small slice of river-land that locals hold close and visitors fall for instantly.

It isn't grand like Pahalgam, or postcard-perfect like Gulmarg. But it has a soul that lingers.

We reached around midday. The sun was strong enough to crack silence, but the wind that came from the mountains carried with it the promise of relief.

The moment we stepped out of the car, we heard it. The rush of the Sindh, wild and urgent, folding over stones with a rhythm that's been beating long before us. It's the kind of s...