NEW DELHI, March 10 -- In the 1990s, suspicions about the origins of dining options provided by Indian Railways meant summer holidays would kick off with the unwrapping of home-made cheese sandwiches in a gently rocking train compartment. Waxy and oddly sour, the fillings were most likely products of India's White Revolution-seemingly built more for durability over a long journey than taste. Back then, imported cheeses, found only in a handful of speciality stores, were expensive and one couldn't trust that timelines and logistics would ensure maximum freshness.

Today, the situation is different. Data from the Union ministry of commerce and industry says India imported cheese worth rs27.2 crore in 2018, more than ever before. These range f...