Kathmandu, Sept. 15 -- A week before my planned trek to Gosaikunda last month, I was in Kathmandu uncertain if the annual Janai Purnima festival at the holy lake had been cancelled as Nepal was still reeling from the second wave.

Nonetheless, I took my chances and was soon on my way to the lake revered by Hindus, Buddhists and animists alike to document the shaman festival that coincides with Janai Purnima.

On the way, I met people with conflicting information about the festival being held this year, and when I finally reached Gosainkunda, the owner of the lodge told me thousands of people would arrive soon.

"For three days, you can stay in the room. On the fourth day, you will have to move to a tent," he said.

On the second day, a fe...