KUALA LUMPUR, Sept. 20 -- It begins, as many good meals do, with a recommendation.

My gym buddy and his girlfriend have been faithfully dabao-ing chasiu wantan mee from Wing On Noodles House in Taman Desa, and insisted that we try.

The corner lot is not unfamiliar. We have sat here before, back when the place was better known for its yong tau foo, a dependable if modest offering. It still does brisk business in that department, but the spotlight these days belongs to another: the wantan mee stall that now anchors the shop.

Two versions are on offer - Normal Chasiu Wantan Mee and Premium Chasiu Wantan Mee. Proud gluttons that we are, we gravitate, without hesitation, towards the latter.

Before we arrive at the star, however, we busy ou...