KAJANG, Sept. 30 -- Chicken, tofu, eggs. At first glance, a humble enough trio, but here they arrive transformed, darkened by soy sauce and spices.

The skin of the chicken drumstick has taken on a dark gloss, the flesh beneath promising tenderness. Tofu, that soft blank canvas, is no longer pale but painted by the braising broth. The hard-boiled egg is stained tea-brown, redolent of star anise and cinnamon.

This is the braised chicken dish at Home & Kitchen Kopitiam in Sungai Chua, Kajang. Served with warm rice, a side of pickles and a saucer of chilli sauce, it is a taste of Chinese home cooking, refracted through the lens of a Malaysian kopitiam kitchen.

Simple, but in the way of simple things, also complete.

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