TAZAWAKO (Japan), Nov. 22 -- We had never heard of the girl before arriving at the lake.

Truth be told, we aren't even here for the lake. The Tohoku region in north-eastern Japan is famed for its bucolic countryside: mountains and lakes, volcanoes and hot springs. The latter meant the region is popular for its onsen bathhouses and inns, perfect for recuperation.

We are drawn by the promise of regenerative powers of the Oshuku River. The waters of the hot springs here have high minerality, purportedly good for the skin and all manner of ailments.

We get off at the Shizukuishi train station, and then it's another 15 minutes by road till we reach our ryokan. Along the way, we pass by rustic farmlands and autumnal fields. Bales of hay all ...