KUALA LUMPUR, Jan. 5 -- The neighbourhood of Taman Bukit Maluri is an under-rated treasure trove of casual Chinese eateries, particularly in the rows of shops and stalls off Jalan Burung Jentayu.

The outermost row sits perpendicular to a neighbouring Guan Yin temple, and by day, dim sum from Tuck Kee is a common choice for the working crowd that passes through.

But on any given night, the most popular joint here is Restoran Yuan Kee, a dai chow that locals and residents from neighbouring Menjalara and Kepong alike flock to for simple, low-frills Chinese cooking.

So popular is Yuan Kee that it has expanded to occupy several adjoining lots, even taking over some of the space previously held by Tuck Kee (as indicated by banners that have ...