TOKYO, July 14 -- This isn't meat.

Certainly what is served before me is savoury enough - one could argue almost meaty - but nothing can disguise the fact it's a platter of mushrooms, marinated in miso for (non-dairy) cheesy notes, and given some extra bite thanks to the accompaniment of water chestnuts and wheat gluten.

From old-school, gluten-centric mock meats (the zai ngor or vegetarian goose was a guilty favourite of my childhood) to technology-driven, plant-based meat substitutes such as Impossible Burger and Beyond Meat - faux meat is here to stay.

While these aim to replicate the real thing, the dish in front of me is unabashedly meatless and proudly proclaims: Enjoy me as I am.

No, this is clearly not meat.

There's something...