KUALA LUMPUR, May 11 -- Let's talk about service. More specifically, what "good" or even "great" service might look like in a restaurant.

I'm not talking about the kind of Unreasonable Hospitality that famed restaurateur and former Eleven Madison Park co-owner Will Guidara describes in his book - the sort where staff learn of a diner's love for Budweiser and surprise him with a champagne trolley of Bud instead of bubbly.

That kind of thing only works at the highest echelon of dining, where you pay for the pleasure of a (hopefully) bespoke experience, and the restaurant can afford the time and resources for a gesture like that.

I'm talking about what it might look like in the kind of place you and I might go to regularly - be it a hawke...