MELAKA, Nov. 6 -- There's something almost lyrical about Malaccan red yeast rice and honey glazed char siew - that lacquered, crimson sheen that glows under the midday sun, the aroma of caramelised pork fat mingling with smoke and sugar.

For those of us who grew up in Melaka, this isn't merely food; it's a memory. It's the scent of the logs of char siew hanging from the hooks, the sound of knives rhythmically chopping through glistening slabs of meat.

Gu Zhao Wei Restaurant, tucked along a lively stretch of Kota Laksamana (closer to Jonker Street than one might realise but far enough that no tourists come traipsing here), channels that sense of familiarity.

Known to locals as Kota Gu Zhao Wei, it is neither flashy nor fussy - just a hu...