Kuala Lampur, Aug. 28 -- KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 28 - This is a colourful platter of tacos, both in terms of hue and flavour. Which to try first?

Perhaps the Peranakan influenced pongteh and tea duck, smoky and sweet. Or beef carnitas that collapses on the tongue, hours of braising enlivened by the aroma of garlic and sambal.

Another fold of supple tortilla reveals chicken that pays homage to Malaccan satay, oh so tempting with its tangy pineapple sauce. A prawn taco, by contrast, is oceanic; its briny sweetness balanced by a fresh kerabu garnish.

Vegan diners will adore the roasted pumpkin, enveloped in a roasted corn and coconut cream sauce, a masak lemak reinvention to delight all palates.

This is the spirit of transformation that define...