KUALA LUMPUR, Feb. 4 -- Around the Chow Kit neighbourhood, you will see signboards with "Khan" everywhere... so much so, you feel you have stepped into the "World of Khan".

Turns out it's the empire of Khan Jee Restaurant with multiple restaurants at every corner, differentiated by numbers, including a grocery store selling a multitude of ingredients to convert you into a Khan devotee at home.

Khan Jee Restaurant 1 was our target one night; we followed the trail of smoke from the kebab grill and found the place sandwiched between old-timer House of Pakeeza and RHB Bank.

The place feels different depending on what time you visit. When the sun is up, its diners come from nearby offices seeking mid-day sustenance like rice or bread with a...