PETALING JAYA, June 12 -- The Gathering Beast, set loose on Aman Suria barely a month ago, is unlike anything else in the neighbourhood in more ways than one.

For one, its sweeping exposed-brick facade, towering glass windows and abundance of potted plants make it look more like a chic downtown darling than a self-styled 'Chinese-fusion' restaurant in the suburbs.

Inside, antique earthenware, ornate figurines and calligraphy on the walls all work to exude Chinese tradition, right down to the choice of round tables only, with Lazy Susans on the larger ones.

But it can also be very untraditional.

The open kitchen, with its loud, crashing woks and roaring jet engine-stoves, bellows at the dining room in a way never seen in a "traditional...