PETALING JAYA, Feb. 13 -- At heart, I've always been a PJ boy. Sea Park, in particular, holds a special place for me; it's where I had some of my earliest food memories, from curry mee and asam laksa to fried lo bak gou, especially along the streets surrounding the morning market.

But the neighbourhood has changed a great deal since then.

Like much of Petaling Jaya, it's become increasingly gentrified, with newer, trendier cafes and restaurants moving in, replacing old favourites and, little by little, eroding some of the area's original character.

Some places, though, still hold out.

On Jalan 21/11b, a few doors down from Restoran Sun Fatt Kee, is Char Yuan Cafe.

Like most of the older coffee shops in the area, it opens as early as ...