KUALA LUMPUR, May 4 -- "You must be the only kid that doesn't like fish balls. What's wrong with you?" And more gems from my father, coming to a memoir near you.

Yes, growing up, I didn't like the ubiquitous crowd-pleaser of kid-friendly local food: the humble fish ball.

I could never understand the appeal of a plain, bouncy (almost artificially so) ball that tasted of nothing distinct.

Then again, I was (and still am) perfectly content with a nine-piece box of "chicken" nuggets and no fewer than four packets of the definitely artificial "Tangy BBQ" sauce - so what do I know?

What I do know now is that Hien Kee holds the answers with its homey, comforting fish ball noodles.

Tucked beneath a public housing block on Jalan Loke Yew, Hie...