KUALA LUMPUR, March 16 -- Saisai Japanese Restaurant was one of my favourite finds last year, and I happily sat at its slightly stuffy counter, chowing down on oden, chicken wing gyoza, and grilled eggplant.

When it closed a few months later, I deeply regretted not visiting more often.

Only later did I learn that it was being replaced by a spin-off of Yoshinari, the popular (and very budget-friendly) Japanese restaurant across the road in Plaza Damas 3.

I resolved to visit sooner rather than later.

Sooner eventually became later, but I finally made it to that same half-shop recently.

This is Yoshinari Hanare: the laundromat next door is still there, but the space has been spruced up, trading its open-air, low-frills feel for somethin...