KUALA LUMPUR, March 13 -- As restaurant names go, Vagabond leans a little edgy.

It calls to mind a nomad, a traveller - one who roams freely, like a rolling stone.

And as the saying goes, a rolling stone gathers no moss.

So what should one expect from a restaurant that embraces the spirit of wandering?

Vagabond is perched in a cul-de-sac behind SOULed OUT and Wisma RLS in Desa Sri Hartamas.

This was once a cutesy vegan spot, though you'd never guess it from the grey, concrete interior walls and the frenetic, scratched-on energy of its logo, scrawled across a stark white signboard.

I walked in half-expecting the nasal vocals and trashy guitars of the Ramones or The Clash, but instead, the dulcet, yearning tones of Erykah Badu's voice...