KUALA LUMPUR, April 13 -- Of all the simple pleasures afforded to us in this short life, the late-night supper might be my favourite.

It is sustenance for the soul, life-giving nourishment; a tender embrace for the weary worker and the rowdy partygoer alike, offering respite from the day's horrors.

These days, that respite has become harder to find.

Ever since the pandemic did a number on small businesses, it's mostly just the mamak or some Chinese brand (looking at you, Haidilao) keeping the lights on past midnight.

However, a few holdouts remain, especially in older, denser neighbourhoods like Pudu.

Some of these places used to stay open as late as three or four in the morning, serving a steady flow of labourers living nearby and t...