PETALING JAYA, March 11 -- The rolled crepes, golden with the use of turmeric and lacy like the net Hephaestus made, wait patiently in an uncovered bamboo steamer.

Your task, should you accept it, is to spoon some of the luscious chicken curry over each delicate pancake, nuggets of soft potatoes gently falling into eager nooks and crannies.

This is the Roti Jala Gulai Ayam at Tanaair, a restaurant in Taman Paramount, PJ that specialises in "Malaysian plates".

The roti jala is a familiar local favourite, of course, while the gulai ayam is inspired by the style found in Kedah, also known as gulai ayam utara.

Tanaair is the brainchild of Ryan Wong, a thirtysomething Malaysian F&B entrepreneur. Together with his father, Wong also runs bro...