PETALING JAYA, March 25 -- This might be the best Chicken Katsu Sando we have tasted in town.

The delicate texture of the brioche, oh-so-light yet richer than traditional shokupan (Japanese milk bread). The careful coating of panko breadcrumbs, the crunchy cabbage slaw, a pleasing choice of fries or salad, even the homemade nanban sauce that balances everything.

Simple ingredients but a top-notch execution of this classic Japanese fried breaded chicken sandwich.

Where does one find this outstanding specimen? Rather than a yoshoku restaurant (serving Western-style Japanese food), track down RAYs, a hidden cafe in the unassuming neighbourhood of Section 51A, PJ.

RAYs is the brainchild of Kenneth Lee, 31, an F&B veteran with over 12 year...