ROME, June 4 -- A cruise ship arrived in Venice for the first time in 17 months Thursday, signalling the return of tourists after the coronavirus pandemic but enraging those who decry the impact of the giant floating hotels on the world heritage site.

The MSC Orchestra arrived empty from the Greek port of Piraeus and will pick up about 650 passengers on Saturday, before heading south to sample the delights of Bari, Corfu, Mykonos and Dubrovnik.

The numbers on board are limited by Covid-19 restrictions to a fraction of the ship's usual 3,000 capacity, while all passengers must show negative tests before joining the cruise.

However, their presence in Venice is proving no less controversial than it was before the pandemic, with two demons...