KUALA LUMPUR, Feb. 24 -- It's practically an annual tradition, even though no one speaks about it. After the last ang pow has been handed out and everyone has had a piece of sweet and greasy bakkwa (or more), it's time for my father to make dessert.

Given this is Chinese New Year and we are a Cantonese family, you might wonder if it might be a special tong sui. We have that too, but the tong sui has always been my mother's domain - barley ginkgo with foo chuk and lotus seeds after a vegetarian meal on Chor Yat - so, yes, something else.

Hours of labouring over the stove is simply not my father's style. His idea of a Chinese New Year dessert will always be cracking open a couple cans of fruits in syrup - preferably one with longan and on...