MELAKA, Sept. 1 -- The popiah arrives at the table without fuss, cut into four generous portions. Its pale flour wrap is soft and so thin we worry each piece might collapse as we lift it. Incredibly, it holds firm to reveal large nuggets of fried pork lard within.

This is what Malaccans consider their beloved local popiah, familiar yet unique enough in its charms.

We are enjoying this particular specimen at Cheng Ho Hawker Centre, along Jalan Laksamana Cheng Ho (yes, named after the legendary admiral Zheng He) near the fabled Bukit Cina.

Spacious, airy, cleaner and breezier than most food courts, Cheng Ho Hawker Centre benefits from having a large car park at the rear (always a relief in Melaka, where finding an available bay for your ...