KUALA LUMPUR, Aug. 12 -- Imagine a mess of noodles still glossy with oil: some broad ribbons, others thinner strands.

Prawns, juicy and sweet; crisp, fresh bean sprouts; soft curds of egg and flecks of charred garlic; luscious blood cockles nestled here and there; everything embraced by the fire's brief, furious breath.

A plate of Penang char kway teow is a fine thing; one perfectly executed with such verve and wok hei a rare find.

This is but one of two remarkable noodle dishes that draw the faithful to Restoran Dai Be Steam Fish Head in Taman Connaught, Cheras.

Kopitiam by day, daichow restaurant by night, this corner lot coffee shop doesn't look that different from others of its ilk.

If in the evenings, regulars file in for fresh ...