MELAKA, Oct. 28 -- This is a true roti canai feast: roti layered with sugar and margarine, roti with barely set eggs in its centre, roti hiding slices of ripe bananas. A saucer of dhal here, a spoonful of sambal there. What more could one ask for?

Given that we are back in my hometown of Melaka, this scene could well be taking place in a neighbourhood warung, where we could also order nasi biryani with ayam rendang to go along with roti canai for breakfast. Even in the early hours of the morning.

Indeed, this is breakfast as it often is, the way it has always been for many families here.

But not today. Today we find ourselves in Melaka Raya, where banks and office towers dominate, where coffee chain cafes and hotpot restaurants seem to...