INDIA, Dec. 10 -- It felt almost surreal stepping into Indore that morning. Having held the title of India's cleanest for years, the city continues to exude a gentle, unmistakable pride through its shining streets. There is something uplifting about a city that takes such careful ownership of itself. The air feels lighter, the rhythm calmer, and even the food somehow tastes fresher. I had arrived with the kind of anticipatory excitement that settles in your stomach and flutters upward, because this visit had a very specific purpose: to finally try Chef Vedant Newatia's much-spoken-about new restaurant, Masala Code. His reputation for balancing invention with tradition had travelled ahead of him, and as I walked toward the warm glow spilli...