MUMBAI, Sept. 5 -- Every year, rhythmic drum beats keep time to chants of "Ganpati Bappa Morya!" Lalbaug, in Central Mumbai, becomes the epicentre of faith, celebration and devotion. In a narrow lane in the heart of Lalbaug-Parel, the Lalbaugcha Raja Sarvajanik (public) Ganeshotsav Mandal is more than just a festival site. For millions, a darshan to the beloved Lalbaugcha Raja is the culmination of a pilgrimage. It's where prayers meet hope and belief transforms into miracles. For ten days during the Ganesh festival, over 8-10 lakh devotees arrive every day, forming queues that snake across lanes and bridges. Some wait for over 12 hours without food or water, holding on to only one desire - a fleeting glimpse of their beloved Bappa. "I don't mind waiting all night," says Anil Suratwala, from Gujarat. "One look at Bappa and all my struggles fade," says Suratwala, who has been visiting Lalbaugcha Raja for 15 years. The popularity of Lalbaugcha Raja transcends geographical and cultural boundaries. Families travel overnight from across India, and even overseas, for a few seconds spent seeking blessings at the feet of their beloved Bappa, melding in a melting pot of unity and devotion. The Lalbaugcha Raja Sarvajanik Ganeshotsav Mandal and its workforce is tasked with crowd management - nearly one crore devotees over ten days. Over 3,500 volunteers, including 800 women, work in shifts, supported by over 10,000 police personnel and private security forces. "Every year, the number of devotees grows. We start planning six months in advance. Our priority is safety, from managing queues and setting up amenities to coordinating medical aid," says mandal secretary, Sudhir Salvi. The mandal has a 32-member core committee, backed by several sub-committees. Meetings begin as early as May. Since Lalbaug is densely packed with narrow lanes and residential clusters, coordination with the BMC, police, and disaster management authorities is critical. This year, the mandal has deployed 250 AI-powered CCTV cameras equipped with facial recognition, motion sensors, and crowd-density trackers. "We get real-time alerts and can take immediate action if anything unusual happens," says Salvi. To ensure a seamless darshan, four distinct queues are organised: one for regular devotees, one for families, one for senior citizens and differently-abled individuals, and one for VVIPs. Darshan takes place round the clock, pausing only briefly for the aarti. Lalbaugcha Raja attracts some of India's most influential personalities, from Bollywood stars, sports icons, industrialists, but perhaps none has played a bigger role in the mandal's grandeur than the Ambani family. In 2024, Anant Ambani donated a 20-kg gold crown worth over Rs.16 crore to the idol. "We are grateful to all our devotees," says Salvi. "Every offering, whether big or small, is accepted with equal reverence. But when people like the Ambanis step forward, it enhances the experience for everyone." From cricketing legends like Sachin Tendulkar to Bollywood actors like Amitabh Bachchan and Deepika Padukone, Lalbaugcha Raja draws VVIPs and the commoners alike. But, inside the pandal, there is no hierarchy - everyone is united in devotion. The story of Lalbaugcha Raja dates back to 1934, born from the struggles of a working-class community. That year, the British demolished the Peru Chawl fish market, leaving hundreds of local fisherfolk and traders without a livelihood. The community prayed to Lord Ganesha, promising to install his idol if they were granted a permanent marketplace. Their prayers were answered and they set up the first Lalbaugcha Raja idol. Over the decades, the mandal became a reflection of India's socio-political spirit. During the freedom struggle, the idol took on symbolic forms, modelled after Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose in 1946, Pandit Nehru in 1947, and Mahatma Gandhi in 1948. These representations were powerful reminders that faith and patriotism often walk hand in hand. At the heart of Lalbaugcha Raja's majesty lies the artistry of Santosh Ratnakar Kambli, a third-generation sculptor carrying forward his family's 90-year-old legacy. His grandfather, Madhusudan Dhonduji Kambli, sculpted the first idol in 1935, becoming known for his "moving models". Santosh recalls, "My grandfather created elaborate models including one for King George VI's visit and earned a gold medal from the British government. In the 1980s, responding to public demand, we shifted from moving models to the current 14-foot idol design, which is now iconic." The idol's form is unique: a slim, human-like body based on ancient scriptures, with a royal posture, one shoulder slightly raised, face tilted to the right as if calling devotees closer. "This design became so popular that we've preserved it for decades," Santosh reveals. Today, through Kambli Arts, the family holds exclusive copyright over Lalbaugcha Raja's facial design. At their workshop, each component of the idol is meticulously crafted, transported to the pandal, assembled and painted. In a final "divine" flourish, Santosh's father, Ratnakar Kambli, uses his paintbrush to "open" the idol's eyes. The offerings made to Lalbaugcha Raja are legendary. In 2024, the mandal received Rs.5.65 crore in cash, 4.15kg of gold, and 643kg of silver, bringing the total collection to around Rs.8 crore. This year, donations were even more. On August 29 - Rs.73,10,000 (gold 225.8gm, silver 7.6kg); August 30 - Rs.65,50,000 (gold: 105.5gm, silver 5.2kg), August 31 - Rs.48,70,000 (gold 81.8gm, silver 2.7kg); September 1 - Rs.45,00,000 (gold 127.6gm, silver 4.2 kg). The mandal channels much of these contributions back into society. Since its inception in 1934, it has been contributing to social, educational and humanitarian causes. It operates a charitable dialysis centre, a computer training institute providing MS-CIT courses, and it offers free yoga facilities. The Lalbaugcha Raja Prabodhini manages educational programmes including libraries, scholarships, book banks, English-speaking courses, and competitive exam guidance. The organises blood-donation drives, runs an employment cell, organizes IAS/IPS workshops, and conducts regular health camps. "The faith of devotees has helped us create a support system for society," Salvi says. "Serving Bappa is also about serving people." Naresh Dahibavkar, chairperson of the Sarvajanik Ganeshotsav Samanvay Samiti, the coordination committee of all Ganesh mandals, said the Lalbaugcha Raja Sarvajanik Ganeshotsav Mandal has set a trend through its social initiatives. "Today, several nearby Ganesh mandals too celebrate the festival in a year-round spirit of service." The story of Lalbaugcha Raja is not just about religion; it's about unity. Every year, Muslim artisans from a village near Lucknow, led by Mohammad Aamir Khan Chacha, stitch the 50-foot velvet curtain that adorns the pandal. "For us, stitching this curtain for Lalbaugcha Raja is the highest honour," says Khan Chacha, with obvious pride. During the visarjan (immersion) procession, which snakes through Muslim-majority neighbourhoods, residents welcome the idol with refreshments and prayers, embodying the spirit of Mumbai - resilient, inclusive and rooted in shared traditions. On the final day, the immersion procession of Lalbaugcha Raja can last over 20 hours, with millions walking, shoulder to shoulder, chanting, dancing and crying in devotion. The Arabian Sea, shimmering under the city's lights, becomes the deity's final resting place. For first-time visitors, it's an overwhelming sight; for regular devotees, it's cathartic. In those moments, faith binds strangers into a single collective heartbeat. For ten days, every year, in a city known never to stop, time stands still in Lalbaug - and Mumbai rediscovers the power of belief....