MUMBAI, June 29 -- From 'chappal chor' to brand ambassador, of sorts, Italian luxury fashion house Prada has made a swift about-turn, expressing its willingness to discuss a revenue-sharing model for Kolhapuri chappals made by traditional Indian artisans and a symbol of Marathi pride. Local artisans are also demanding that Prada use the 'Kolhapuri' label when selling these chappals in the international market. Prada's pivot comes after the international fashion brand showcased the classic T-strapped, flat and intricately braided chappal at the spring summer 2026 menswear collection at the Milan Fashion Week recently. This drew loud protests from local Kolhapuri artisans, who accused Prada of "cultural appropriation" for failing to give due recognition to the chappals, which represent an 800-year tradition that originated in Kolhapur in Maharashtra. Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA), had written to Prada on June 25, urging acknowledgement and collaboration regarding traditional Kolhapuri footwear designs. Gandhi told HT that Lorenzo Bertelli, head, corporate social responsibility at Prada, had replied to him on June 27. Gandhi said, "We welcome the response from Prada, which admitted that the design it had showcased had been inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear." The fashion house, Bertelli had added in his letter, was ready to "recognise the value of specialised craftspeople by meaningful exchange with local artists and MACCIA". Gandhi said he interpreted this to mean that Prada was open to working out a revenue-sharing formula with local Kolhapuri artisans, for the sale of the traditional chappals in the global market. He added that a team from Prada would soon arrive in India for discussions. "Kolhapuri chappals are priced between Rs.400 and Rs.4,000, while Prada sells similar footwear for more than Rs.1 lakh. So there is huge scope. This row has opened the doors of the global market for Kolhapuri chappals and local craftsmen will greatly benefit." A statement issued by MACCIA said, "Lorenzo Bertelli, head of Corporate Social Responsibility at Prada Group. acknowledged the global recognition of Kolhapuri chappals, which are symbolic of Kolhapur's identity and Maharashtra's cultural pride." After the controversy broke last week, Kolhapuri artisans, led by Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) MP Dhananjay Mahadik, met chief minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday and urged him to advocate for them with the central government, which could then push their case with the luxury fashion brand. With Prada now acknowledging the signature Kolhapuri chappal, Mahadik said, "I welcome the letter by Prada. But along with revenue-sharing, we are also demanding that the fashion house use a label recognising the footwear as 'Kolhapuri footwear' when it sells the chappals in the global market. The craft and heritage of Kolhapur should get due recognition worldwide."...