Mumbai, Aug. 25 -- It's a four kilometre walk through a thick Deodhar forest from my cottage to Mashobra, an almost continuous bazaar on a ridge. The slopes fall off on either side: One towards Shimla, about 20 kilometres away; the other into a wide sunlit valley, dominated by the Shali peak. Green-roofed cottages scramble down into the valley, from whose depths snatches of music float up. The road snakes onwards towards Naldhera, a spot that so charmed Lord Curzon that he named his daughter after it....