Tariff woes: Apparel exporters eye UK, EU
new delhi, Aug. 11 -- Indian textile and apparel exporters are redrawing their global playbooks as a sudden US tariff hike threatens a market that comprises a major share of their shipments. Big names like the Raymond Group, Gokaldas Exports and Pearl Global Industries Ltd (PGIL) are pivoting towards the UK and the European Union (EU), and are looking to leverage upcoming free trade agreements (FTAs) with other markets to soften the blow.
The latest punitive move of the US-doubling duties on Indian goods, including garments to 50%-has upended cost structures in a price-sensitive sector that competes with Bangladesh and Vietnam that have lower tariffs than India.
Companies are now diversifying buyers, shifting production to lower tariff hubs in Africa, Latin America and Southeast Asia, and building orders in FTA-linked markets. For Raymond, Gokaldas and Pearl Global, that means everything from relocating lines to Ethiopia or Guatemala to intensifying sales efforts in the UK, where a new trade pact promises duty parity with Bangladesh and a 12% edge over China. With Europe already expanding in their export mix, the industry is moving quickly to contain short-term losses in the US while positioning for long-term growth in markets with lower trade barriers.
India is the sixth-largest exporter of textiles and apparel globally, with the sector's exports valued at $34.4 billion in FY24, government data shows.
Europe and the US consumed nearly 66% of India's apparel exports, 58% of finished non-apparel goods, and 12% of raw materials-semi-finished materials.
The new tariff regime, announced by US President Donald Trump, imposes a 25% penalty tariff on goods from India over and above the 25% duty that kicked in earlier this week.
In 2017, the Raymond Group had moved part of its manufacturing base to Ethiopia, which attracts a 10% tariff in the US. India, however, remains the primary production hub for the company's US exports, and the new tariffs will significantly increase costs.
For example, readymade garments such as shirts and trousers, which earlier faced an 11% tariff, are now subject to 36%, with a potential total of over 60% with the additional duty.
Raymond is now stepping up efforts to secure larger orders from the UK, a move that is expected to be lucrative once the India-UK FTA takes effect.
"We can push some of our customers to the Ethiopian market. Additionally, we have always had a diversified portfolio. The US is attractive because of the large quantum of orders which enables us to get more productivity. However, February-March onwards, we have pushed our teams to camp constantly in Europe to build more orders. With the recent FTA with UK, the market is going to be more attractive. Over the next three to four years, our UK business can easily double," Amit Agarwal, group chief financial officer of Raymond Ltd, told Mint....
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