Hot under your collar?
India, April 11 -- In our better summer fantasies, we're lounging next to a clear stream. We're soaking the sun near a big pool. We've got the sunscreen we splurged on, we're finally getting to that book we kept saying we'll read eventually. It's a scene out of Call Me By Your Name: our skin glows, the breeze is light, and our vacation beau is fetching us some lemonade, maybe even a fruit platter. The reality is harsher than the sun we're facing in May.
India's summer is not an easy opponent. To face this beast, you need an AC that can work 24/7, and a schedule that doesn't sentence you to natural roasting for simply stepping out. Here's another stressor: we're not living in the most peaceful of times. There's a political crisis right across the Arabian Sea. The economy - as we've been hearing for a while now - is going down. Spending is low, the temperatures are at an all time high. Amidst all this chaos, it's hard to think about clothes that don't leave you feeling like a clammy frog, stuck in plastic. But this vanity project of ours isn't unaffected.
Gone are the days we'd buy something solely for that one summer party. Designers and brands are tussling with plastic fatigue - they're focused on presenting clothing that is all natural, built with materials that last. "The priority becomes hard-working classics you can reimagine and re-wear. Consumers want pieces that will work hard for them, not something that is essentially use and throw," says Divyak D'Souza, Stylist. Fashion is slowing down and leaving the frenzy behind.
"Think of the way the climate has changed. Heat waves in March are not normal, and it's definitely impacting how we're dressing," comments Akash Sinha, Co-founder and Creative Director of the clothing label, October. "You need something that is comfortable, but also something that is multi-purpose."
This doesn't mean you have to compromise on style.
The smartest choice one can make when they're picking clothes right now, is to take a step away from clothes that don't survive a single laundry cycle. You know the type: flimsy, don't let your body breathe, and most likely 100% polyester. Reach for natural fabrics like cotton and linen - they allow a smooth air flow, and let the body remain cool. Plus, they're great to have in your wardrobe if you're someone who has sensitive skin. Rashes are quite common in the summer, it's best to grab something that doesn't trap heat.
"Materials affect our skin, and how we feel. They're on us for a better part of the day. Thankfully, consumers and brands are realising the impact they have on the planet as well," shares Shivangini Padhiyar, one half of the duo leading Summer House, a sustainable clothing house. While investing in a natural fabric piece is definitely pricier than a top picked up from Sarojini, it's definitely an investment. When taken care of, cottonwear can last somewhere between a year and five, and linen can last somewhere between 3 years to a whole decade. Natural fabrics in India are also accompanied with fresh, artisan-led pieces. We're talking handwoven blouses and jamdani dresses. Sinha pitches in with his advice to build a lasting wardrobe based on practical, not emotional spending: get your hands on some linen pants. "Get two pairs, one light and one dark, and you're set with multiple looks."
The hottest girls don't limit themselves to a summer dress or swanky shorts anymore. The idea is to pull up to the next soiree with a dashing kurta. Modern Indian silhouettes have taken over collections. We're spotting oversized kurtas, long tunics, barrel pants and plenty of fun necklines (say hello to kurtas with halter necks and cute collars). "No one is just doing a simple long kurta anymore, there's a western sensibility to it. People are also paying attention to their pants. People aren't just wearing cute tops and putting on a basic pair of pants on their Goan holiday. They want some design, some embroidery," says Padhiyar, who is a firm believer of wearing jamdani in summer. Rekha Datla, co-founder of Summer House, insists on having a solid white kurta in your rotation.
For D'Souza, blockprints take the cake this season. "Almost every Indian designer is experimenting with block print right now. It was a big highlight of Rahul Mishra's collection. India is all about colour, unlike the West, which has a more muted colour palette. Custom block prints - not the machine-made styles sold in flea markets - such as bandhani and ikat, show that off very well." And is there a better way to tie it all together than with some kolhapuris and some silver jewellery? "You can never go wrong with hoop earrings," adds Eka Lakhani, Stylist and Wardrobe Consultant.
The real check-in? Grid patterns and stripes rule summer style. Our scarfs, tops and skirts come in soft gingham, and bold checkboards. Striped shirts have always been a summer staple, and each year we see more colour options. Stripes are great for anyone looking to reject the basic bottoms allegations: pin-stripes hit the sweet spot between boring and too-much. For those willing to take one step further, D'Souza recommends adding a statement skirt. See: a checked midi, or even a floral wrap skirt.
Let's not forget to say yes to some blooms. Here's the 2026 floral upgrade: say sayonara to small, ditsy floral prints. This year, we're going big, and abstract. A dress that's half calla lily? Count us in. The plus side of sticking to such a floral design is that with the right kind of layering, you make it a hit at a winter function too. Who said all flowers need to wilt in the cold? But if you're eternally scared of patterns, heed Saaksha Bhat's advice. The co-founder of the label Saaksha & Kinni knows that it can be quite a leap. For newbies, "Stick to one statement patterned piece, and keep the other pieces fairly simple."
A few years ago, summer clothing was about what you couldn't wear all-year around: itsy-bitsy bikinis, some sheer cover-ups and shorts - that's not the case anymore. "Summer dressing used to be, 'what can I take for my holiday'? Now, it's more about how I can wear this on my vacation, and a brunch in the city?" explains Bhat. Swim-wear sinks down on everyone's must-have list, and even holiday-themed items carry the every-day wear and utility factor. Wrap skirts are solid and knitted shorts have extra linings - you can leave the beach with just these on. Another welcome addition: reversible clothing. Moreover, the colour scheme is also not just restricted to your pastels or white, winter shades like maroon and olive green remain constant in collections.
According to Lakhani, "One shouldn't underestimate the power of a good co-ord either." You can wear the two pieces together, or mix it up as and when you see fit. A three-piece set also makes for great experimentation. Jackets let you flow between formal and informal, day and night. Even different footwear and accessories can have the same effect. Wear your linen pants with some flip-flips and you're ready for a day of walking around town; switch it up with some open-toe kitten heels and you're ready to dance the night away at your friend's party. Maybe lose the daily-wear hoops for silver danglers and you got yourself some pazazz. Big shoppers and mini clutches carry enough personality to last all year long.
We're holding onto some traditions though. What can we say? The flowy silhouette goes hard. "There's also a little bit of a return to traditional femininity with women's wear. I think dressing softer is no longer frowned upon. There was this big push towards androgyny in women's wear for a while, but draped silhouettes work really well for the Indian body-type," shares D'Souza. Say yes to all the a-line dresses and ruffle skirts.
Fringes and tassels don't leave our sight either, they were all over Lakme Fashion Week, of course. Lakhani particularly loves the ones produced using Indian textiles over synthetic ones - they're softer, and generally more beautiful. Another favourite, crochet has been around town - from tops, to skirts to even our bags - you know you're picking a nice one if it has reinforced stitching, and the yarn isn't scratchy. Ruffles and broderie cannot be missing from a lover girl's dresser, but don't forget to check for clean edges, and finished seams at the back. The same rules apply to crochet. And we stand by the cardinal law of summer clothing, if it isn't laid back and breathable, toss it out....
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