From 2.5K families to 25 artisans in three decades, Pattu craft struggles to survive
Barmer/Jaisalmer, Aug. 18 -- In the golden sands of Jaisalmer, where camels stride across the desert and forts rise like mirages, another treasure once defined the region's identity-the world-famous Pattu. Handwoven on Gandhiji's charkha from pure wool, these richly designed shawls not only kept the desert warm but also powered the local economy.
For generations, the rhythmic clatter of looms echoed across villages, sustaining more than 2,500 families.
Today, those sounds have almost fallen silent. Barely two dozen artisans remain, struggling to preserve a craft admired worldwide for its intricate workmanship and cultural significance.
"Until the 1990s, more than 2,500 families in villages such as Kathodi, Naga, Tejpala, Lanela, Kshatrel, Kabir Basti, Ramgarh, and Khuiyala sustained themselves through spinning, dyeing, and weaving," recalls master weaver Parmanand Rathore. "Today, we are down to just 25 artisans. Without support from the government, this craft is slowly dying."
Pattu weaving involves spinning wool into thin strips that are then crafted into broad shawls.
These are worn by people of all communities, with men often choosing richly decorated patterns and women favoring check designs.
The weaving technique utilises extra weft insertion after every two picks, producing motifs that resemble fine embroidery. While once woven from local sheep wool, the decline of indigenous breeds has forced artisans to use imported yarn.
"Earlier, we worked with wool from local sheep, which had its own texture and strength," says Rathore. "Now, the Khadi Board supplies Australian wool, which spinners turn into yarn. We dye and weave it, but the connection with our own livestock is lost."
Despite its decline, Pattu remains a symbol of Jaisalmer's cultural pride. Khadi Parishad minister Rajuram Prajapat, who has spent forty years in the sector, insists the craft's uniqueness cannot be overstated. "Our aim has always been to provide employment through hand-spun and handwoven wool," he says. "Pattu and Bardi shawls are made only in Jaisalmer and Barmer-you will not find this handwoven art anywhere else. For us, it is not just clothing but a tradition, a gift of respect at weddings and community occasions."
What makes Pattu distinctive is its purity. Every stage-spinning, dyeing, weaving, and stitching-is carried out by hand. "There is no machine intervention, no adulteration," Rajuram stresses. "That is why people buy it with pride, even though it costs more. Owning a Pattu is not only about warmth-it is about heritage and prestige."
Officials acknowledge the crisis but say revival work is on. District Industries Centre general manager Santosh Kumari admits, "The number of artisans has come down sharply, but we are trying to connect them with buyers through haat bazaars and self-help groups. Right now, only two families in Thaat and Gomath villages near Pokaran are weaving Pattu, with just about 25 people still active."
From being the livelihood of thousands to surviving in the hands of a few, the story of Jaisalmer's Pattu embodies both the glory of Rajasthan's heritage and the neglect that threatens to erase it.
As Rathore puts it bluntly: "If things continue like this, future generations will only read about Pattu in history books. They will never see it being woven."...
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