India, Aug. 15 -- Long before it appeared in lookbooks and fashion week runways, khadi was spun by hand in homes across India. Made from cotton, silk or wool, the fabric became a political statement in the early 20th century when Mahatma Gandhi urged people to weave their own cloth instead of buying imported textiles. The charkha, or spinning wheel, symbolised self-reliance, and khadi became a daily act of resistance. Post-independence, khadi shed some of its political charge, taking on a more utilitarian role. Through the '70s and '80s, it was sold largely through government emporiums - plain kurtas, handloom saris, ceremonial attire. It was heritage-heavy, often austere. Today, that image is shifting. A younger generation of designers is placing khadi in cropped jackets, relaxed trousers, breezy shirts - even hoodies, shorts and co-ord sets - honouring its history while propelling it into the present. Labels across India are giving khadi a modern vocabulary. Anavila pairs understated saris with tailored separates, Raw Mango treats it as a sculptural textile with bold colours and textures, while Eka adds a bohemian ease. Tilla experiments with prints; Eleven Eleven focuses on natural indigo and meticulous hand-stitching. At Kardo, khadi is the starting point for plant-based dyeing, ajrakh block printing, ikat weaving, jamdani, even handloom denim. "We reinterpret this storied fabric and fuse it with contemporary design, dyeing it with plants, block printing it in Ajrakh, pairing it with Gond art, and reinventing it as handloom denim," says founder Rikki Kher. Ashish Satyavrat Sahu from Khadiwala Designer says, "Every thread carries the touch of the maker. It's freedom you can wear while also being earth-friendly, timeless, and full of character." Sahil Meenia of Hindostan Archive connects it to its political roots: "Gandhi's vision of self-reliance and empowerment is finding new relevance as the world turns to sustainability. We've worked with Vankars in Bhujodi village, using kala cotton on handlooms and pitlooms. It's not just fabric, it's process, people, and stories." Khadi is still made entirely by hand. Fibres are cleaned, carded, spun on the charkha, then woven on handlooms or pitlooms. Many artisans use natural dyes for soft, earthy tones. The process produces subtle variations in texture and weave. No two lengths are alike. Designers treat these details as marks of its authenticity. Khadi fits neatly into today's fashion priorities. It is sustainable, biodegradable and energy-efficient, aligning the trend of mindful consumption. Social media has also reframed it as chic and versatile: khadi saris with sneakers, shirts with denim, jackets over dresses. Sales through the Khadi and Village Industries Commission are growing, but the bigger change is cultural. It is a signifier of Indian fashion becoming rooted, responsible, and globally relevant....