India, March 2 -- H oli may burst into colour, but it begins quietly - in the grinding of soaked almonds, the scent of fennel and cardamom, the saffron swirling into chilled milk. Before the first splash of gulal, there is the first sip of thandai. Across India, gujiya and thandai are festive essentials. Yet this cooling, nut-rich drink is more than refreshment. It marks the shift from winter to summer and carries mythology and memory in every glass. Believed to have originated in Varanasi, the city of Lord Shiva, thandai is tied to the legend of Maha Shivratri, when Shiva was offered a cooling drink after his wedding to Goddess Parvati. Since then, it has remained inseparable from Shivratri and Holi, symbolising renewal as temperatures rise. At the over 70-year-old Badal Thandai in Varanasi, the festive rhythm begins early. Fifth-generation owner Narendra Kesri says preparations start from Rang Bhari Ekadashi, when Goddess Parvati is believed to visit Kashi for the first time after marriage. "From Basant Panchami to Shivratri and until Holi, this is our peak season," he says, adding, "We use top-quality ingredients, kesar, cashews, almonds, house-prepared thick malai and our own blend of masalas. Our bhang-infused thandai is especially popular. In the city of Lord Vishwanath, serving thandai feels like a blessing." Still made the traditional way - nuts soaked and stone-ground before blending - the shop even featured in Gangs of Wasseypur. At Baba Thandai, Akshay Sarin carries forward a legacy that began in 1950. "My grandfather, Amar Nath Sarin, started this, and I now represent the third generation of the family. We prepare only Kesar Pista Badam using pure milk, along with cashew, pistachio, almond, saffron and cardamom. We don't add anything else, it's a simple recipe that anyone can make. Yet, people often tell us they can't replicate the same taste at home." Raja Thandai, established in 1936, remains a Holi landmark. "From actors to former prime ministers Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi and Atal Bihari Vajpayee have visited us," says owner Raj Kumar Tripathi. Their most sought-after variant is the 'hari wali' which is bhang-infused thandai. Prepared with full-fat milk, fennel seeds, cardamom, white pepper, saffron, a mix of five seeds - watermelon, pumpkin, cucumber, kakdi and bottle gourd - rose water, sugar and generous dry fruits, the drink is at once cooling and indulgent. The faint heat of pepper offsets the sweetness, while melon seeds lend body and texture. At ISKCON Temple Dwarka, 108 variations are on offer this year. "As youngsters embrace spirituality in modern ways - through bhajan clubbing and devotional concerts - we've reimagined thandai too," says Keshavpriya Devi Dasi, head of department at Govinda's Kitchen. The offerings range from sugar-free and dates-based versions to oats-infused blends and fruity flavours like blueberry, mulberry and strawberry, alongside chocolate and aromatic infusions....