Onam's heritage reimagined with a fresh takeon Sadhya
India, Sept. 5 -- Onam, Kerala's harvest festival, marks the return of the mythical King Mahabali from the underworld and is celebrated with a grand vegetarian feast known as the sadhya. Served on a banana leaf, it features over 20 dishes, balancing salty, sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, and astringent flavours.
Traditionally, the food served during the sadhya includes matta (Kerala red rice), parippu (dal with ghee), avial (vegetables in coconut), thoran (stir-fried vegetables), various pachadis (similar to a raita with vegetables or fruits), and sides like puli inji (ginger-tamarind pickle) and sarkara varatti (banana chips), along with sambar and rasam.
While the traditional meal remains beloved, chefs across India are now reinterpreting its components with creative flair.
At Marriott Executive Apartments Hyderabad, Executive Chef Suresh Rajan Pillai reimagines the classic payasam as a palm jaggery caramel pudding: "The classic payasam is usually made with rice, milk, sugar, and spices. The innovation lies in my choice to substitute refined sugar with palm jaggery, creating a caramel base that is richer, deeper, and tinged with a subtle earthiness. Also, palm jaggery has always been a staple in Kerala homes." Ask why he chose to make this switch for the festival and he says, "A small twist to a classic recipe creates an entirely new experience without losing its essence."
At Gateway Bekal in Kerala, a mocktail named Inji Puli Thullal draws inspiration from the spicy pickle. "It has the boldness of ginger, the tanginess of tamarind, and the warmth of spices - perfect for rainy months," says F&B Manager Lokeshkumar Munusamy.
Chef Paul Kinny, Director of Culinary at The St. Regis Mumbai, presents a Drum 'n' Peel Taco which is packed with flavours associated with the southern part of India. He says, "It features the humble banana flower and earthy moringa seed, dressed in coconut, spice, and inji puli, cradled in a ragi dosa shell."
In Pune, Sous Chef Bhushan Hargane of Sheraton Grand Pune Bund Garden Hotel turns avial into ragi waffle canapes. "The waffles are made with ragi and rice flour, and topped with an avial-inspired foam of coconut milk, yoghurt and avial masala - garnished with pappadam shards, toasted coconut, and chilli oil," he says.
At Eve Santacruz, Chef Sandeep Shreedharan is serving up a White Asparagus Olan, a contemporary reinterpretation of the mild-flavoured curry made from pumpkin, black-eyed peas, and thin coconut milk. "We've chosen the delicate white asparagus as the hero ingredient as it adds a seasonal freshness while retaining the gentle coconut milk base and subtlety that makes Olan such a soulful dish," he shares. The restaurant also reimagines pazham pori (banana fritters), by serving it alongside a rich jackfruit curry made with roasted coconut (varutharacha)....
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