India, Sept. 27 -- Much has been written about the sunny, buoyant and elderly keeper of the 96-year -old legacy of one of Mumbai's extraordinary institutions. Boman Kohinoor, the man behind Britannia & Co passed away. And for a mere restaurateur, an unprecedented amount of ink was poured in tribute. Which in itself goes to show that Kohinoor, wasn't mere at all. He was part of the fabric of Mumbai that is now slowly being frayed and is turning threadbare. In him, we have lost one of the few remaining symbols of a city that represented another more gentle and upright age.

I must have first visited Britannia when I was a kid. In those days, driving to the heritage precincts of Ballard Estate was no great thing. We did not give even a secon...