MAPUSA, May 4 -- ERWIN FONSECA

Mapusa currently has just one flour and masala mill, run by 75-year-old Ramesh Bicholkar, the fifth-generation owner of the family business. "From what I've been told, about 120 years ago-when the Portuguese were still ruling Goa-my ancestors came to Mapusa for the feast of Our Lady of Miracles," says Ramesh. "They were extremely poor, almost living hand to mouth. They brought with them a few bottles of 'goli'soda-the kind with the glass 'ball' stopper-which was a craze back then. The plan was to sell soda at the feast fair for a few days and return. But that never happened."

Instead, they found respect, affection, and what Ramesh believes were the blessings of Milagr Saibinn. "That changed everything. The...