India, Dec. 8 -- At 78, Clara Fernandes of Candolim still begins her mornings with the same quiet determination she learned as a young girl-standing behind a basket of festachem chonne, the humble grams that have remained a cherished part of Goan feasts for generations. Her family has been selling grams for 85 years, and Clara herself has devoted 55 years to the trade, a legacy passed lovingly from mother to daughter.
Clara grew up watching her mother sell grams at a time when a podd cost only Rs 2. The grams were bought directly from the person who fried them-a skillful, labour-intensive task. Selling grams was never just a business; it was a tradition woven into the fabric of Goan festivals. "Without festachem chonne, no feast was ever ...
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