Dehradun, July 12 -- Altered State

The kettle stopped singing and the steam poured out of the spout and pushed up the lid, and then the kettle hissed and rattled violently.

"Sir, wai wai mein saare vegetables daalne hain?"

The question was asked gently but with purpose by Vipin, who runs the Tip Top Tea Shop at the Landour hamlet of Char Dukan, as he turned off the left knob on his two-burner stove as drops of hot water escaped the ill-fitting lid of the kettle and dropped upon metal.

Looking back at Vipin, I smiled and nodded.

"Aur omelette mein cheese daalni hain na?"

Vipin's second question.

I can remember it like it was yesterday, though it has been nearly a year since I last sat at Vipin's cafe.

It is one of the abiding memor...