Nepal, Oct. 31 -- Everyone who has visited Mustang describes it as enigmatic, majestic, and dreamlike. My recent four-day trip evoked the same emotions, but my critical consciousness has noted more than beauty.

Taking comfort into consideration, my friends and I booked a Scorpio jeep to ferry us all the way to Upper Mustang. Everyone was excited about the trip-and why wouldn't they? Travellers across the nation often exaggerate Mustang and its beauty above other places. People even go so far as to say that a Nepali who hasn't visited Mustang in their lifetime isn't a 'real Nepali'.

Perilous roads

"Are we going to hell or the holy land of Muktinath? Look at the roads!" one of my friends sniggered and pointed at the peeling asphalt. Once...