Nepal, July 26 -- When we reach Milan Chowk, a tiny town to the northeast of Pokhara, at 8am to catch a jeep to Lwang village, we are told the only jeep to the village leaves at 1pm. But a stout cheerful Gurung man tells us that we can take the jeep that leaves in an hour to Khora Mukh, a small town neighbouring Lwang, and then hike for an hour to reach our destination.
The old white Bolero jeep to Khora Mukh leaves at 9am sharp, and soon we leave the town behind. The pothole-riddled asphalt track gives way to a two-lane rocky road teetering on a cliff's edge. To our right is the swollen murky-white Seti River. The ride, our driver tells us, is going to be a bumpy one, and he reckons the previous night's rain must have worsened road condit...