Nepal, Dec. 27 -- 'Guilt and Glory: Climbing with Sherpas' is written by Jon Gangdal, who has been climbing and collaborating with Sherpas for more than 35 years. The book opens with a Sherpa wedding ceremony in Kathmandu. The bride, Pasang Diki, takes the author's hand, thanks him for attending, and says, "My family is complete".

In this moment of joy, he reflects on the past, remembering how her father, Mingma Norbu Sherpa, lost his life in an avalanche during the author's first expedition to Mount Everest in the fall of 1994.

He feels responsible for this tragedy and blames his obsession with climbing Everest. A lingering sense of guilt has haunted him for a long time, and this marriage represents letting go of that guilt. It's amazi...