Kathmandu, Feb. 14 -- On any given day, in khaja ghars around the Valley and across, the smell of fried eggs sizzling on a hot kadai comes wafting from the kitchen. As the didi adds some chiura and chana to the eggs, regulars drop in one by one. No matter her age, she becomes didi for everyone who steps inside, while her husband becomes everyone's dai. At the front desk, dai is always busy taking and calculating orders. He's also regularly tending to customers who are out in the open, sitting on mudas outside, puffing cigarettes while sipping tea. "Didi, ek cup chiya chittoh banaidinu la" (Didi, can you please make me a cup of hot tea), the order calls from every end, especially during lunch and tea breaks.

Some regular customers laugh a...