Kathmandu, Aug. 23 -- It came as a shock to this group of guides sitting idly in front of Kumari Ghar, Basantapur, when I asked them if I could hire a guide. A local person needed a guide to be shown around the city. The air obviously was filled with suspicion. Their heads huddled close to inspect my nativeness; bemused they asked me, "Are you really a Nepali? Were you living abroad? Where is the tourist group?"

It became quite apparent that no one wanted to show me around. The group of local guides tossed the task to one another, excusing themselves from the conversation until only one was left to oblige. But Rajendra Bahadur Kunwar didn't agree just to show me around. My interest in the guides had piqued his curiosity in me, and he wan...