Srinagar, Jan. 17 -- Wular Lake has always been a symbol of infinity. To the people of the valley, it was the Great Water, a source of fish, water chestnuts, and legends. But as I stood on the muddy shore, the infinity felt fragile. The air here didn't smell of fresh water and mountain breeze; it smelled of stagnation and decay. I met Gul Kak, a young fisherman whose family had worked these waters for generations. Gul Kak was sitting by his wooden boat, his nets spread out on the ground. But he wasn't mending them. He was picking through them, his face set in a mask of frustration.Look at this, Beta, Gul Kak said, holding up a handful of his catch. It wasn't fish. It was a tangled mess of plastic bags, a shredded piece of a tarp, and seve...