Bandipora, Feb 11, Feb. 12 -- The meeting was held in the small panchayat lawn, a place usually reserved for planning or resolving property disputes or other social issues. I stood at the front, my notebook open on a small wooden log. About thirty people had gathered, mostly out of curiosity or a sense of neighbourly obligation or in honour of a teacher. Uzma sat in the front row, her presence a silent support. I began not with a lecture, but with a story. I told them about the morning roti, about the twelve bags on a Tuesday, and the twenty-eight bags during the festival. I spoke about the 18,00 bags a year from a single house, and the millions that were currently suffocating Wullar Lake. "I am not here to blame you or anyone" I said, my...